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Индия. День 17-18. Как приготовить масала-чай








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Индия. День 17-18. Как приготовить масала-чай


Катерина Оралбаева

Индийские традиции предписывают масала чай, и не проходит дня, чтобы я его не пила.
Как у вас начинается утро? У меня – с тазика кофе. Но пить кофе в Индии было бы кощунственно, да и не тянет на него совсем. Индийские традиции предписывают масала чай, и не проходит дня, чтобы я его не пила. Уверенная в существовании секретов приготовления, в Удайпуре я попросила Нараяна познакомить меня с процессом. Встала ранним утром у плиты с решительным видом и приготовилась тщательно всё записывать. Процесс начался, закончился, а я так и стояла, не написав ни слова. Секретов, оказывается, нет. В молоко просто добавляется чёрный чай, порошок масала чай, продающаяся в любом магазинчике, а под конец – сахар. Всё. Я даже разочаровалась. Правда, есть вероятность, что по такому чудо-рецепту я смогу готовить любимый напиток в Милане.

   
Улочки Удайпура 

 

Программа максимум в Удайпуре была выполнена, автобус отправлялся только вечером, и можно было неспеша заняться девчачьими удовольствиями – прогуляться по рынку. С самого своего прибытия в Индию я пыталась найти традиционный наряд сальвар камиз – брюки с туникой. Редкие варианты, которые мне нравились, непременно оказывались или слишком большими, или вывешенными на улицу для привлечения клиентов, в связи с чем грязными и дырявыми. Удайпурские рынки в индианку меня тоже не превратили. Я с надеждой снимала обувь на пороге очередного "салона", усаживалась на подушки перед воодушевлённым продавцом, просматривала имеющиеся варианты, но в итоге уходила ни с чем. Процесс сам по себе может быть увлекательным, особенно если вы любите шопинг. Хозяин даже заказывает иногда чай для удобно устроившихся покупателей, желающих потратить неприличную сумму денег, но мне, видимо, так и придётся ходить в футболках до самого отъезда.

Рынок специй тоже принёс тонны эстетического удовольствия и счастливое чихание, но никак не утяжелил мою сумку. Особенно понравился перец. Его можно покупать в стручках, а можно молотый. Красный порошок получают здесь же, у клиента на глазах.

       
Удайпурский рынок

Во всём этом обилии цветов и ароматов не устроило меня только одно – упаковка. Пластиковые пакетики склеивались абы как, вероятность получить взрыв красок в сумке была пугающей. Отложила покупку до последних дней. Надеюсь не пожалеть об этом, оказавшись с пустой сумкой в аэропорту.

Удивительно мало на рынке было чая. Я даже обошла окрестности ещё раз, думая, что пропустила какое-то чайное царство, но нет, царство сконцентрировалось на шести видах на выбор у нескольких зазывал. Цена – от 140 до 250 рублей за кило. От цифр прямо-таки ноги подкосились, и сердце жадно заколошматило внутри. Но раз уж специи будут потом, с чаем тоже можно подождать...

Нагулявшись по городскому базару, я потихоньку засобиралась в путь.

Уже при бронировании билета в Агру меня предупредили, что станция находится далеко от центра. Навигатор показывал около 4 км, что совсем не пугало. Вышла я чуть не за два часа в надежде съесть тарелку риса с цыплёнком около места отправления автобуса. Рикши около городского дворца дружно замахали руками на мою цену, сказав, что 8 км за такие копейки отмахать не готовы. Я оскорбилась и ушла, гордо вскинув сумку на плечи. Знаем мы ваши 8 км! Тоже мне, умники, в 21 веке с google картами тягаться!

Отмахав пешком километра три по родным уже улочкам, я в очередной раз проверила направление и осознала, что отметка на карте плавает вне дорог, чуть ли не в реке. Полицейские на одном из перекрёстков долго ничего не понимали из моей бумажки с адресом, но потом увидели название компании, и лица их просветлели. В попытках объяснить мне дорогу сначала фигурировали 2-3 км, потом 3-4, а подошедший на помощь англоговорящий индус с уверенностью заявил, что там не меньше семи. В другую сторону. Голова в ужасе закружилась. Материализовавшийся из ниоткуда рикша уверенно закивал, услышав место моего направления, но зная их кивки, я всё же попросила троицу разжевать ему каждую букву. На это ушло ещё минут пять, радостные кивки при этом сменились угрюмым согласием, и цена возросла почти вдвое. Выбора у меня особого не было.

Ехали по пробкам минут двадцать, и оказались в итоге практически за городом. Я теребила бахрому на шали и сомневалась, понял ли мой горе-водитель, куда меня надо везти. Выгрузили меня на жалкой площадке с толпой ожидающих. Зайдя в подозрительную конторку и убедившись, что я в правильном месте, я-таки выдохнула и осмотрелась. Общепита на горизонте не было, но радовало само наличие автобуса.

Место у меня на сей раз было не сидячее, а спальное. На ночных автобусах это очень удобно. Настоящие койки, одноместные или двухместные, закрываются шторкой и отгораживают от любопытных карих глаз. Я сразу спряталась от окружающего мира, не желая видеть странную публику.

Автобус выехал в темноту. Снова по кочкам и ухабам. Каждые часа два происходили остановки в полях, во время которых вся мужская составляющая высыпала на улицу и выстраивалась перед окнами в ровную шеренгу. Хорошо хоть, к избушке передом, ко мне задом...

О женской составляющей не вспоминали очень долго, но на одном из причалов из мрака всё же выплыли заведения с надписью "gents" и "ladies". К ним тут же рванули две белые фигурки. Так я узнала, что шторка скрыла от меня не только индийские лица.

На большом привале у придорожной харчевни познакомились. Молодые девчушки волонтёрствуют в Удайпуре по три месяца. Одна оказалась из Лондона, другая – из Италии. Проболтали с ними за миской риса и чапати из полыхающей глиняной печи, поморозили косточки в автобусе до утра, а потом вместе на тук-туке домчались до входа в Тадж-Махал. Отчаянная молодёжь приехала всего на пять часов, и время терять не могла. Я же отложила все приятности на потом и первым делом отправилась заселяться в отель.

В отеле меня ждал не очень приятный сюрприз. Оказывается, карточки здесь не принимают. Забросив вещи в номер и хлебнув чая на крыше с видом на главную достопримечательность, несусь в город искать банк.

Прослонявшись по грязным узким улочкам Агры, выхожу на площадь, просто усеянную банками. И снова чувствую себя в Дели. Входные двери штурмуют толпы озверелых индийцев, подступиться к ним страшно. Да и бесполезно, в таких местах валюту не меняют – это я для себя уяснила. Рядом, как и полагается, потирают ручки менялы, готовые выкупить твои непосильным трудом заработанные евро за пару рупий.

Пробегав по городу полдня, я плюнула на это дело и в горе ушла в красный форт. Место красивое, виды неплохие, но информации почти нет, а за входные билеты дерут вполне европейские деньги. Миланцы, и те постеснялись бы выставлять такой прайс за простой визит в крепость. В общем, усталость ли то от бесполезного галоппирования по Агре, объективная ли невзрачность места, но ушла я совершенно разочарованной.

       
Красный форт в Агре

Изначально в планах помимо форта был визит на кладбище и в какую-то известную библиотеку, но желание продолжать знакомство с городом испарилось полностью.

 
Приготовление чапати ночью в глиняной печи

Вернувшись в отель, я устроилась на крыше с тарелкой тали – готового микса из риса, лепёшек, чечевицы и местного сыра в соусе. Рядом вдруг раздалась речь на русском, описывающая окрестности. Так я познакомилась с Владимиром и Аидой. Только сейчас я поняла, как мне не хватало общения с людьми западной культуры всё это время. До вечера мы говорили взахлёб об Индии, об Азии, о путешествиях и просто о жизни. А потом я в своём номере слушала, как Вова, оказавшийся музыкантом и продюсером, в общем уютном дворе-холле проводит уроки музыки по скайпу.



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