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Индия. День 11-12. Тяга к кладбищам и мистике








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Индия. День 11-12. Тяга к кладбищам и мистике


Катерина Оралбаева

Достопримечательности не манили, зато жизнь простых горожан занимала мои мысли постоянно, порождая в голове всё новые и новые вопросы...
Расслабленность и наслаждение моментом продолжились и на следующее утро. Не спеша позавтракав на крыше, я взяла рикшу и погнала в противоположном туристическому маршруту направлении. Абсолютное большинство приезжих посещают в Джодпуре дворец Умаид Бхаван - величественный особняк в 347 комнат с двумя театрами, бальным залом и подземным бассейном. На строительство его ушло 15 лет, и было проложено 19 км железнодорожных путей. Внук махараджи, выстроившего дворец в 1934 году, до сих пор обитает в одном крыле здания. Другой был превращён в роскошный отель. Каждый вечер на крыше я любовалась огромным подсвеченным куполом Умаид Бхавана, но так и не захотела туда съездить.

 

Меня тянуло на природу, в сады и зелень. Именно поэтому в первое утро я ринулась в Мандоре, бывшую резиденцию королей с садом и кенотафиями правителей. Детально продуманный парк с тенистыми пешеходными дорожками и поросшими кувшинками прудами был по-индийски запущен. Если бы не этот факт, здесь вполне можно было бы провести полдня в полном релаксе. Кенотафии напоминали незнакомую мне пока Камбоджу. Основательные, чуть помпезные и горделивые. Самая большая из гробниц принадлежит Ажит Сингху. 

         

После его смерти в 1724 году 6 жён и 58 наложниц дружно залились слезами и совершили ритуал сати – то есть сгорели заживо, как и следует безутешным вдовушкам. Ритуал этот в Индии был давно запрещён, но случаи его до сих пор случаются в сельских местностях. Порой оставшаяся без кормильца женщина не видит для себя иного пути, порой родственники покойного наседают морально и вынуждают к такому отчаянному и бесповоротному шагу.

Нагуляв на свежем воздухе аппетит, первым делом в городе я отобедала в старинном дворике под пальмами, а потом снова отправилась бродить по подворотням. Достопримечательности не манили, зато жизнь простых горожан занимала мои мысли постоянно, порождая в голове всё новые и новые вопросы: почему до сих пор многие стирают в грязных реках и набирают бадьи с водой на водокачках, неужели вода проведена не у всех? Почему они все жуют этот паан, который вызывает мощное слюноотделение красного цвета и украшает тротуары до прихода дождей розовыми кляксами? Сколько у уважающей себя женщины должно быть сари в гардеробе? Почему у многих такие белые зубы?

     

Ответы на некоторые из вопросов я нашла потом в ходе путешествия, но место их быстро заняли новые. Индия вообще страна вопросов и ответов, и всё это приходит само собой, можно распластаться в плетёном кресле в кафе, заказав чайничек масала-чая, и просто смотреть вокруг, погружаться в глубокие раздумья и тут же выныривать из них с озарением на лице.

В последний день я всё же решила почтить своим присутствием Мехрангарх форт, возвышающийся прямо над отелем. Массивные крепостные стены буквально вырастают из скалы высотой 125 метров. Р. Киплинг писал когда-то, что это сооружение создали ангелы, волшебницы и гиганты. Мне кажется, ангелы в военной архитектуре не очень сильны, но перечить такому мастеру пера и слова не очень хочется.

           

По форту и его залам гулять можно с удовольствием часами. Лучше, конечно, делать это со знающим человеком (местные гиды таковыми, увы, не являются). Уверена, что очень много историй и изюминок здесь скрыто. Мне, например, очень понравился эпизод из жизни молодого махараджи. Усаженный на традиционный беломраморный трон, он увидел перед собой цепочку дарителей. Не зная, как поступать с подарками, он стал принимать дар от одного и передавать его следующему. Довольно неожиданно, согласитесь!

   

Сами залы выдержаны в типично могульском стиле: зеркальные вставки, золотое покрытие, разноцветные витражы и декор, от которого в момент перенасыщения начинает рябить в глазах. Не предназначена я для королевской жизни...

После форта я пешком отправилась в соседний Джасвант Тхада. Тяга к кладбищам и мистике берёт своё даже здесь – привлечённая изначально панорамной площадкой и изящными шпилями и куполами, я опять оказалась в месте сожжения джодпурского махараджи. О смерти здесь не напоминало ничего! Райский сад, дикие красные скалы вокруг, группы необузданных школьников и валяющиеся под деревьями парочки – олицетворение надежды на светлое будущие и на жизнь вечную, а не кенотафий!

         

Вечером, нагулявшись по окрестностям, я получила, наконец, билет на автобус до Удайпура от хозяйки. Идти на вокзал не хотелось, и я предпочла заплатить стандартную комиссию посредникам. Автобус отправлялся рано утром, в кромешной предрассветной тьме, место отправления было приписано на хинди заботливой рукой, и хозяйка обещалась вызвать рикшу прямо к двери отеля и объяснить ему заранее, куда меня везти. Вдохновения всё это не придавало, но отступать было некуда. Впереди маячил очередной переезд и знакомство с новым уголком Индии.



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Василий (2016-12-20)
Какая то странная странность? День 10, потом 9?
Ответить на комментарий


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