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Индия. День 15-16. О кризисе с наличными и прочих индийских радостях








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Индия. День 15-16. О кризисе с наличными и прочих индийских радостях


Катерина Оралбаева

Группа женщин старательно замазывает соломенные стены низкой хибарки смесью навоза и глины. Домик со стороны выглядит очень аккуратным и уютным, почти игрушечным. Почему-то хочется слепить себе такой же...
Самое нелюбимое моё занятие в Индии – разруливать вопросы, связанные с переездами на новое место. Приобретение билетов, поиск вокзала, сон при стуке колёс в обществе сомнительных аборигенов – всё это стресс и лишняя пара белых прядей на макушке. Сейчас же ко всему этому веселью добавилась ещё и проблема с наличными.

Всё утро я резвым аллюром носилась от одного банка к другому, получая вежливые, но категоричные отказы обменять евро на злосчастные рупии. Денег к полудню обессиленной туристке никто так и не дал, в расстройстве я заехала на вокзал за билетом на поезд и даже там получила щелчок по курносому носу – на ближайшие дни всё раскуплено.

Получив от Таниша виртуальное разрешение на ещё одну ночь в квартире, я как в фильме "Всё будет хорошо" подняла правую руку и... остановила рикшу, попросившись подальше от всей этой неразберихи – в деревню Шилпграм.

Уже на входе стало понятно, что визит растянется до бесконечности, поэтому первым делом я взгромоздилась на стул в локальном ресторанчике и заказала себе неизменное блюдо в борьбе с непонятными названиями в меню – рис с овощами. Подкрепившись, можно было выступать на изучение территории.

В первой же избушке я застряла на полчаса. На экране мелькала глухая сельская местность, босые огрубевшие ноги отплясывали по сырой земле, беззубые старцы вещали что-то на хинди и пронизывали своим жгучим необъяснимым взглядом на расстоянии. Субтитры на английском манили в раджастанскую деревню, суля вековые обычая, традиции, костюмы и предметы быта.

Сам Шилпграм, этнографический музей под открытым небом, представляет собой именно выжимку всего колорита из жизни восточных племён. Пять основных народностей представлены любопытствующим туристам со всей атрибутикой: скромные хижины, оружие и музыкальные инструменты в музее, танцы и костюмы во время ежедневных и ежечасных шоу. На неспешную прогулку по всем этим богатствам у меня ушло больше трёх часов.

Первым в своё логово меня заманил художник. В отличие от конкурентов, праздно рассевшихся перед своей продукцией и зазывающих раззяв, старичок этот усердно орудовал кисточкой и предложил мне не купить типичную могульскую миниатюру в его исполнении, а узнать о ней. Я живо устроилась рядом для импровизированного урока. Мастер начал с себя, с отсутствия художников среди предков и с описания долгого кропотливого обучения с азов. Было довольно интересно, но минут через 20 риск потерять весь день в беседах возрос до критической точки и я сбежала, оставив собеседника наслаждаться искусством.


Рынки с народным промыслом представлены довольно ярко в повседневной жизни, поэтому в Шилпграме на кашемировые платки и тапочки из верблюжьей кожи внимание я обращать не стала. Как заворожённая, я летела на звуки музыки. Под навесом на глинобитном полу отплясывали женщины в ярких сари. Я подоспела к концу выступления, но сцена тут же заполнилась следующими выступающими. Смеющиеся от собственных оплошностей девчушки кружились юлой на сцене, проделывали акробатические трюки и явно получали от происходящего удовольствие. Фоном этого действия служил обнаженный амур-охотник с рогами.

     
Шилпграм

Ещё несколько танцев, песнопений с барабанами и обязательного в программе человека-коня, и сцена пустеет. Артисты не расходятся, скрываясь в тени и фотографируясь со страждущими, зная, что затишье продлится недолго.

Я потихоньку продолжаю осваивать просторы.

Сразу за ступенями-трибунами группа женщин старательно замазывает соломенные стены низкой хибарки смесью навоза и глины. Домик со стороны выглядит очень аккуратным и уютным, почти игрушечным. Ощущение "игрушечности" от мельтешения изящных женских ручек только усиливается. Почему-то хочется слепить себе такой же...


Во время летних дождей большинство домов в Шилпграме смывает, и работы по реконструкции стен здесь не единственные. Недалеко бабушка с внучкой расписывают известковую стену незамысловатым геометрическим узором. Сами просят сфотографировать их, чтобы взглянуть на себя со стороны. Цокатают дружно языками, но ничем не выдают своего мнения о фото.


Горшечных дел мастер, ткач – все ходовые профессии здесь представлены.

 

Нагулявшись по деревне и всерьёз задумавшись о проведении недельки-другой в типичном поселении у раджастанского племени в следующий приезд, я вышла на улицу. Такси нет, рикши все ждут своих утренних клиентов, автобусы не ходят. В голове стали крутиться минуты ожидания такси против времени возвращения в Удайпур на своих двоих. К счастью, моя задумчивая физиономия привлекла внимание индийского семейства с лялькой, которая просто предложила подвести меня до центра. Отказаться было невозможно.

Ужин прошёл в квартире. Нараян к моему приезду уже успел накрыть на стол и молчаливо с улыбкой навалил мне огромную тарелку риса с овощами. Хорошо всё же возвращаться не в пустой отель, а в пусть и подобие, но дома.

Долго думала утром, стоит ли заходить внутрь городского дворца-крепости, у стен которого я остановилась, но усталость от золотых однотипных интерьеров взяла своё. Главная достопримечательность страны осталась без моего внимания. Во дворы и во внутренний парк я всё же зашла, и застала там очередную смену декораций к свадьбе, о которой недавно шла речь. Десятки рабочих распаковывали новую белую мебель, на временной сцене уже красовались здоровенные мраморные пегасы и охапки цветов. Если отмечают они четыре дня и каждый раз меняют место, выбирая среди лучших... цифра все равно не укладывалась в голове, но перестала казаться настолько дикой.

Обо всём этом я думала потом, поедая самосу в полюбившейся уличной забегаловке, отличающейся относительной чистотой от остального рассадника заразы. За соседним дощатым столиком восседало индийское семейство в шесть человек, загребающее рыжеватые смеси хлебным мякишем и безо всякого стеснения рассматривающее иностранку. Дети и женщины улыбались, лица мужчин были непроницаемы. Я точно так же пялилась на них. И точно так же улыбалась, потому что уж слишком открытыми были эти детские мордочки. Всё же Индия по контрастам переплюнет любую страну: рядом тратятся миллионы на одно единственное торжество, а здесь люди едят на 100 рублей вшестером.

Вечером был закат. Или нет, не так. Вечером был ЗАКАТИЩЕ! Таниш договорился, что меня как гостью бесплатно покатают по озеру, усадив на самое почётное место. В пять часов туристическая лодка отчалила, обдав грязными брызгами копошащуюся в воде детвору, и следующий час я пребывала в состоянии немого восторга. Прибрежные стены старинных особняков хавели были залиты золотом, горы на горизонте потемнели, лёгкие волны расплёскивали в разные стороны все оттенки багрянца. Мотор замер в определённый момент, и мы все погрузились в оглушающую красоту. Казалось бы, так просто – солнце садится за горизонт, но так волнительно и трогательно одновременно!

         

Приятности на этом не закончились. Шоу в Багор Ки Хавели я оставила на последний вечер, и оно оправдало все ожидания. Во дворе старинного особняка под звуки живой музыки вновь закружились в танце пёстрые сари, а потом... потом начались настоящие индийские чудеса. Приземистая полногрудая барышня вышла в пляс с двумя увесистыми горшками на голове, потом число горшков увеличилось до пяти, до семи, до одиннадцати... а она всё крутила и крутила бёдрами. Более того, танец был исполнен на битых стёклах и на краях жестяной тарелки. В конце представления ведущий по секрету признался публике, что барышне в ноябре исполнилось 70. 70 лет!! И танцы с 11 горшками на голове!!

     
Шоу в Багор Ки Хавели

Появление старца с зонтиком на голове и саблей после этого вызвало смешки публики, но они прекратились тут же, как только странный тип начал перебирать зубами горячие угли. На закуску - выступление кукловода. У меня это переходит в настоящую манию! В Милане верхом совершенства я считала балет марионеток в любимом семейном театре, где шарниры вращали деревянные бёдра в танце живота. Индийцы переплюнули всех. На сцене творилось полное безумие, публика ревела от восторга. Марионетки изгибались в мостик и брали ртом подброшенные купюры, жонглировали собственной головой и чуть ли не манили к себе пальчиком.

Последний в Удайпуре ужин может быть в ресторане на крыше и только там! Пылающая свеча, диванчик с видом на озеро, поза лотоса и столик на том же диванчике, заставленный лакомствами индийской кухни. Суп из шпината не впечатлил, но зато как здесь готовят цыплёнка!

В разгар моего пиршества вдруг позвонил Таниш, который был занят весь день. Оказалось, в квартире ещё один ужин в процессе приготовления и ещё один цыплёнок.

Записав кучу советов по местам к посещению и местным блюдам к опробованию в Варанаси и Агре, я распрощалась с этим добродушным толстяком. Последняя ночь в Удайпуре и снова в путь...



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Семен (2016-12-23)
Что происходит с фотографиями? Они переселяются с одного дня в другой?
Ответить на комментарий


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