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Индия. День 13-14. О прекрасном закате, обезьянах и кастовых различиях








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Индия. День 13-14. О прекрасном закате, обезьянах и кастовых различиях


Катерина Оралбаева

Умиляли рисунки на белоснежных стенах домов - напоминание о популярной здесь могульской живописи. Миниатюрные верблюды и павлины, процессии махараджей на слонах выставляются также в каждой третьей витрине магазина...
Утром я вышла в кромешную мглу, боясь не найти на месте обещанного рикшу. На ступеньках кто-то ковырялся в телефоне, и у меня отлегло. Через просыпающийся город с уже привычными кострами домчались до места отправления автобуса. Здесь я мысленно поблагодарила хозяйку отеля за инструкции по билету, потому что сама бы я это место никогда не нашла.

А если бы нашла, то не признала и уехала дальше. Обычная грязная площадка перед жилыми домами, сумеречная конторка-касса внизу, ни одного автобуса и ни одного человека. Уточнив у кассира правильность места, рикша удалился. Полчаса ожидания на лавочке и автобус-таки подошел. Слипер, как его называют индийцы. Помимо сидячих мест в них помещаются двухуровневые койки. В них можно растянуться во весь рост, закрыться шторкой от внешнего мира и постараться забыть, где ты находишься.

К моей радости, в автобус перед отправлением загрузились ещё два человека и мальчик из Лондона. Любое белое лицо, встреченное вне объектов из туристических путеводителей, радует тебя в Индии несказанно!

Поездка была не из приятных. Люди набивались на станциях и полустанках, платили, проезжали несколько километров и снова выходили. Выбоины, спящие собаки и задумчивые бурёнки на дороге заставляли наше судёнышко колыхаться и метаться во все стороны.

К полудню прибыли в Удайпур и я, пошатываясь, в сонном и измученном состоянии выгрузилась на шумную улицу.

Удайпуром, надо сказать, я грезила с самого начала путешествия. Особо радовали отели с ресторанами на крышах, откуда открывался шикарный вид на окрестные горы и озеро Пичола. Я заранее представляла себе балкончик с плетёным креслом, где я буду любоваться закатами, и ванну в мраморе, где не страшно будет совершать ежедневные омовения. Всё испортили друзья. За пару дней до прибытия они скинули мне контакты знакомого удайпурца, настоятельно рекомендуя остановиться у него. Муки выбора длились долго: вылизанный отель с видом или очередное приключение и погружение в реальность? Победило моё волшебное шило...

С Танишем я связалась за день до прибытия, втайне надеясь, что он будет занят/в разъездах/ не в настроении принимать гостей. Но он сразу согласился.

Днём он работал, но после моего сообщения о приезде сразу выслал своего помощника с ключами от квартиры. Квартира оказалась типичным гостевым домиком со спальней, ванной и кухней на первом этаже, непонятным помещением на втором и двумя уровнями крыш.

В крышу я влюбилась сразу: вокруг соседи вечером развешивают цветное бельё, выстиранное здесь же в розовых тазиках, а за растянутыми цветастыми пятнами, там, на горизонте, видно озеро с белоснежными островками-отелями и цепь низких, окутанных сизым туманом, гор. Прогулявшись по райончику, показавшемуся удивительно тихим и нетуристическим несмотря на огромное количество туристов, я специально вернулась сюда к закату.

Небо пылало. Из белого Удайпур вдруг превратился в сливочно-апельсиновый. Я не могла оторвать глаз от картины, замерев в восхищении, пока реальность, как обычно, не напомнила о себе. На соседней крыше промелькнула какая-то тень. Явно не бурундуки, стаями скачущие по свежевыстиранным простыням, и не зелёные попугаи, порхающие рядом.

     
Закат на крыше

Не успела я включить воображение, как из-за угла появилась обезьяна. Пара прыжков, и она уже сидит на лестнице, спускающейся в дом и являющейся моим единственным путём на "свободу". При моём приближении милая морда вдруг злобно оскалилась и издала звук, который сложно было бы назвать дружелюбным.

 
Обезьяна, преградившая путь назад

Я замерла, и тут же увидела других хвостатых, спускающихся со стороны городского дворца по растянутым над городом проводам. Полчища страшных и ужасных. В мыслях тут же завертелись картины, где я в белом балахоне каратистки сражаюсь с многочисленными обезьянами, раскидывая их направо и налево, пока туча приматов не поглощает меня.

Обезьяны, впрочем, были обеспокоены гораздо более прозаичными вещами – они просто дружно направились на ужин к соседнему дереву. Моя красавица через пару минут присоединилась к пиру. Посмеявшись над собой, я спокойно спустилась вниз.

Вечером появился хозяин хором со своим приятелем, и мы втроём отправились на ужин в соседний отель, на крыше которого помещался ресторан с видом на окрестные красоты. Rooftop restaurant, ресторан на крыше, явление для Удайпура типичное. Главное – не ошибиться с кухней. Мои индийские товарищи, будучи местными, знали, куда вести гостью. Креветки на гриле, цыплёнок на гриле в пикантно-пряном соусе, и я уже почти в родной Италии.

Просидели пару часов в расслабленной обстановке, договорились о домашнем ужине на крыше следующим вечером и распрощались с пожеланиями спокойной ночи. Я осталась на попечение помощника. Фигура его так и осталась для меня таинственной. Подозреваю, что Нараян принадлежит к низшей касте и просто находится в услужении – все дела по дому, все мелкие поручения выполняет именно он. Моя попытка вымыть кружку в один из дней привела его в ужас. Спал он на тонком матрасике на кухне, и меня не прекращала мучить совесть, что я согнала его с кровати. Или кровать в любом случае предназначается только гостям?..

На следующее утро я пошла исследовать город. После всего увиденного он казался довольно чистым и опрятным. Умиляли рисунки на белоснежных стенах домов - напоминание о популярной здесь могульской живописи. Миниатюрные верблюды и павлины, процессии махараджей на слонах выставляются также в каждой третьей витрине магазина, на пороге хозяин-художник обещает вам ещё кучу всего интересного, "только загляните".

         
Улочки Удайпура

Мой путь лежал мимо всех этих лавочек и мимо рынка на север Удайпура, в сады Сахелион Ки Бари. Королевский размах, которому пел дифирамбы мой путеводитель, в жизни оказался совсем не королевским. В голову непрестанно продолжали лезть картинки с садами на итальянском озере Комо. Пруд с лотосами, усеянный индийскими влюблёнными, и тот не произвёл на меня никакого впечатления.

 
Императорский сад

Совсем иначе получилось в музее Бхаратия Лок Кала, который мне посоветовал Таниш. Музей посвящен индийским племенам, их традициям и марионеткам. Хрупкие фигурки в ярких платьицах показывают вариации празднеств и выступлений: одни не представляют шоу без игры на цимбалах, другие танцуют на битом стекле, третьи передают друг другу горячие угли ртом. В общем, аппетит на деревенские праздники у меня разгорался с каждой инсталляцией всё больше и больше. К счастью, удовлетворить его было несложно. Но об этом – в следующий раз.

После прогулки по музейным залам я попала в крошечный театр. Там было устроено небольшое представление марионеток. Мне очень понравилось, правда, тогда я ещё не знала, что главное кукольное шоу у меня впереди.

     
Музей марионеток

Последний пункт программы на день – остров Неру на соседнем озере. Вид свисающих над озёрной гладью пальмовых лам и белоснежной беседки, врезающейся своим остроносым куполом в голубое небо, издали облекали остров райской аурой. Парк, однако, разочаровал. Запомнится он скорее крошечным кафе-причалом со скошенными старыми ставнями и воркующими на карнизах голубями.

   
Остров Неру

Там я научилась пить по-индийски. Здесь никогда не прикасаются губами к бутылке, просто выливают содержимое в рот и делают это так искусно, что хоть в цирке выступай. Я тренировалась с водой периодически, но это всегда заканчивалось прохладным душем. На острове я неосторожно взяла колу. К пыльной банке трубочки мне не дали. Пришлось протереть поверхность и пытаться изобразить из себя индианку. Этот момент осторожного вливания в себя шипучего напитка почему-то очень прочно засел в памяти. Футболка при этом впервые не пострадала!

Вечером температура резко опустилась и ужин был перенесён внутрь. Нараян выступал в роли повара и почивал нас типичными раджастанскими блюдами: овощным супом, чечевицей дал бади и собственноручно приготовленными хлебными шариками из какой-то странной муки. 

 
Нараян за приготовлением ужина

Простая сытная кухня. Экзотичнее оказалась компания – в гости заглянул знакомый, занимающийся организацией мероприятий. Удайпур у индийцев – излюбленное место для проведения подобных торжеств. Пик их приходится как раз на ноябрь, на даты, которые высчитываются при содействии астрологов.

Друг этот, на которого без слёз и без протянутого куска хлеба глядеть невозможно было, занимался как раз подготовкой к свадьбе следующего дня. Стоимость организации всего мероприятия с 200 приглашенными в переводе на евро составляла 48 миллионов. Да! Никакой ошибки и описки! 48 миллионов евро на свадьбу! Я, признаюсь, подумала о человеческой тенденции всё приврать и преувеличить, но в дальнейшем почти уверовала в вероятность такой цифры. Вот ведь умеют люди отмечать! (И транжирить!)

Ужин прошёл отлично. Гости все быстро разъехались и я, закрывшись в своих покоях, ушла в объятия Морфея в предвкушении следующего дня.



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