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Намибия, день 6. Буря в пустыне Намиб








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Намибия, день 6. Буря в пустыне Намиб


Татьяна Аксиненко

Сначала подул ветер и дорогу, как поземкой, стало переметать песком. А затем началась буря. Видимость пропала, песчинки начали весело бомбардировать наш автомобиль! Гружёная под завязку delika начала покачиваться в такт порывам ветра.
Душ, доминиканский кофе, привезённый из России и кусок морковного торта из ресторана лаунджа. Очень уж он мне вчера понравился!

Сборы, и по дороге к машине поддаюсь на уговоры позавтракать. 

Что чаще всего предлагают на завтрак? Пара видов сыра, колбасы, печеные и жареные сосиски, йогурт, мюсли, сок, молоко, чай, кофе, разные джемы. В некоторых особо продвинутых гостиницах ещё дают что-то вроде манной или кукурузной густой каши на воде. И омлет. С фруктами и овощами напряг. 

Как обычно беру сыр с джемом, йогурт и кофе. Заказываю омлет с кофе. Сыры в этой лаундж особо вкусны!

Едем в Колманскоп, занесённый песками, город алмазодобытчиков. По дороге любуемся дикими намибийскими лошадьми. 

Дикими они стали поневоле. Легенда гласит, что жил в Намибии человек, который занимался разведением лошадей. Во время конфликта между немцами и южноафриканцами, табун разбежался. За сто лет лошади явно одичали, но тем не менее, вызывает удивление, что они выжили, находя себе круглый год и воду, и пропитание. В зависимости от года, в настоящее время табун насчитывает от 120 до 190 лошадей. 

Продвигаемся по пустыне Намиб. Какой-то невероятный восторг вызывает у меня пустыня. И преклонение перед теми, кто преодолевал её не так, как мы – в машине с кондиционером. 

Но вот и город, занесённый песком. О Колманскопе будет отдельный пост, здесь лишь скажу, что байка, которая ходит по русскоязычному интернету, о том как люди построили город "не учитывая планов пустыни на это место", – всего лишь байка. Пока шла добыча алмазов, город жил и функционировал, и лишь после ухода алмазодобытчиков его стало заносить песками Намиба.

Далее мы продвигаемся к океану в небольшой портовый город Людеретц. 

В ресторанчике с видом на океан я наконец-то добираюсь до знаменитых южноафриканских устриц!


Что сказать? Вкусно! Очень вкусно! Тот самый вариант, когда не нужен перец, лимон, табаско и прочее лукавство. А цена... Тех денег, что заплачены за дюжину, навряд ли хватит купить хотя бы одну в Московском "рыбном базаре".

Обратный путь через Намиб оказался не так радужен даже в delika. Сначала подул ветер и дорогу, как поземкой, стало переметать песком.


А затем началась буря. Видимость пропала, песчинки начали весело бомбардировать наш автомобиль! Гружёная под завязку delika начала покачиваться в такт порывам ветра. А я вспомнила девочку Элли и её полет через Канзас.

Но пустыня, напомнив людям "кто в доме хозяин", отпустила нас подобру поздорову. 

Ужинать не хотелось. Выпив Маргариту в баре, отправляюсь спать. Завтра знаменитый Соссуслвей. 




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