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День 12, Намибия. Рисунки бушменов и органные трубы








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День 12, Намибия. Рисунки бушменов и органные трубы


Татьяна Аксиненко

И знакомство с рисунками начинается с камня, на котором якобы изображена карта. Легенда гласит, что племена бушменов оставляли друг для друга такого рода карты, указывающие где вода, и где какие животные обитают.
Встаём рано. Сегодня по плану: наскальные рисунки бушменов и, так называемые, органные трубы.

Легенда гласит, что рисункам этим около трёх тысяч лет. И знакомство с рисунками начинается с камня, на котором якобы изображена карта. Легенда гласит, что племена бушменов оставляли друг для друга такого рода карты, указывающие где вода, а где какие животные обитают. Экскурсовод по имени Мона Лиза, рассказывает:

- За три тысячи лет природа изменилась и больше здесь нет ни воды, ни животных, ни самих бушменов.  

- Одни только туристы, - смеёмся мы.


Про самих бушменов интересно. Жизненный уклад их за прошедшие тысячелетия не изменился и цивилизация не развратила их. Наш проводник Михаил рассказывал, что он бывал у бушменов, и у них на самом деле нет вождя, а только шаман, они так и охотятся с копьями и едят только то, что добывают. Какой-то "сердобольный" белый как-то привёз им коз, бушмены порадовались, покивали разговорам о скотоводстве, как это замечательно и весело их стрескали.

Так же Мона Лиза, указывая на нарисованных на скале пингвинов и морских котиков, утверждает, что бушмены ещё были и путешественниками. Более часа лазаем мы по скалам под палящим солнцем. Само по себе место очень живописное, но приходит время покинуть Твайфелфонтейн.

Далее проезжаем так называемую обожженную гору и приезжаем к органным трубам.

Спускаюсь в русло пересохшей реки и вижу сюрреалистическое зрелище - мало того, что скальная порода аккуратно выточена ровными брусочками, эти самые брусочки ещё и разноцветные!


Какие неведомые процессы здесь происходили? Какие катаклизмы тут происходили? Или наоборот, из века в век вода и ветер вытачивали эту красоту!

Заезжаем покушать в очень странную лодж. Она стоит посреди пустыни, окружённая раскалёнными камнями, вид вокруг напоминает сцены из Апокалипсиса. Не хотелось бы мне здесь жить. 

А завтра мы наконец-то попадём в Этошу! С кем-то нам удастся встретится...



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Об Африканских презентах
В трёх соцсетях разыгрываем призы, привезённые из Намибии!!!
День 15, Намибия, часть 2. О бездонном озере и огромном метеорите

Татьяна Аксиненко

Метеорит уникален со всех сторон: во-первых, это самый большой метеорит из обнаруженных на Земле, во-вторых, при падении он не оставил огромного кратера, в-третьих, он более-менее плоский. Есть предположение, что именно эта третья особенность позволила Хоба войти в атмосферу под очень острым углом и упасть на землю почти плашмя. Вследствие чего и не образовалось огромного кратера...
День 15, Намибия, часть 1. О красоте дикой природы или в мире животных
А дальше понеслось: быстроногие спрингбоки, великолепные куду, саблерогие ориксы (потрясающие животные!). В ритуальных битвах ориксы бодаются лбами, в гневе же могут использовать рога, но бьют плашмя, вреда физического друг другу не причиняя. При этом могут не просто дать отпор хищным кошкам. Знатоки рассказывают, что орикс своими рогами может даже заколоть льва!
День 14, Намибия. 9 июля. В погоне за слонами и нашествие зебр

Татьяна Аксиненко

Проверяем ближний водопой - пусто. Едем дальше, к водопою на который приходят слоны - пусто. Ещё один водопой, опять пусто.
День 13, Намибия. Племя химба и открытие фотосафари

Татьяна Аксиненко

И тут начинается настоящая фотоохота! То мы крадёмся за ним, то обгоняем, то возвращаемся и замираем, держа на готове свои фотостволы! И наше терпение вознаграждено! Носорог выходит в зону видимости! Это восторг!!! Дальше спринбоки, ориксы и стадо антилоп гну, перед которым гордо вышагивает птица дрофу - самая тяжёлая птица Африки.
День 12, Намибия. Рисунки бушменов и органные трубы

Татьяна Аксиненко

И знакомство с рисунками начинается с камня, на котором якобы изображена карта. Легенда гласит, что племена бушменов оставляли друг для друга такого рода карты, указывающие где вода, и где какие животные обитают.
День 11, Намибия. Прощание с океаном и городок Корикас

Татьяна Аксиненко

По дороге появляются навесы, где женщины химба продают какие-то незатейливые украшения, скорее всего произведённые где-нибудь в ЮАР.
День 10, Намибия. Рыбалка на акулу и великое обжорство

Татьяна Аксиненко

Улов, сменяя друг друга, вытягивают члены нашей скромной и уютной компании минут 15-20. И это все-таки акула! Терренс измеряет её и сообщает длину - 198 см. Мне кажется, он малость преувеличивает - метра полтора. Нафотографировавшись акулу отпускаем в холодные воды Атлантики.
День 9, Намибия. Розовые пеликаны и берег скелетов

Татьяна Аксиненко

Как признак близкого берега опять появляется множество розовых пеликанов. Они садятся на палубу, важно расхаживают и совсем не боятся людей! Как и котики, которые то и дело взбираются на палубу!
День 8, Намибия. Восход в дюнах и выход к океану

Татьяна Аксиненко

Последние километров 100, наблюдаем за окном совершенно серый пейзаж, лишенный растительности. Вот она, настоящая пустыня! И кончается она только там, где начинается город.
День 7, Намибия. Соссуслвей

Татьяна Аксиненко

Высота дюны около 200 метров. Решаем, что обходить долго, мы залезем на дюну и посмотрим верным ли курсом продвигаемся - наверное голову напекло, пустыня таки.
Намибия, день 6. Буря в пустыне Намиб

Татьяна Аксиненко

Сначала подул ветер и дорогу, как поземкой, стало переметать песком. А затем началась буря. Видимость пропала, песчинки начали весело бомбардировать наш автомобиль! Гружёная под завязку delika начала покачиваться в такт порывам ветра.
День 5, Намибия. Мэр Ауса, закат и ночное ралли

Татьяна Аксиненко

Отражение солнечных лучей еще долго радует глаз. Но стемнело и, пора возвращаться. И тут мэр Ауса, по совместительству экстремальный гонщик по пересеченной местности, повез нас вниз, не включая фар!
Намибия, день 4. Фиш Ривер каньон

Татьяна Аксиненко

Рассказывать про красоты заката – идея не очень умная, предлагаю смотреть, все время держа в уме, что пленка не может передать этой невероятной красоты!
Намибия, день 3. Колчанный лес и игрища великанов

Татьяна Аксиненко

Путешествия – это всегда удивительные открытия, но главное богатство, люди, которые встречаются на пути.
Намибия, день 2. Красные пески Калахари

Татьяна Аксиненко

Пьем кофе, которое привезли с собой. Забавные истории случаются порой с продуктами и напитками. Уж не знаю какими неисповедимыми путями добрались эти зерна до нашего дома, чтобы их смололи, провезли через Европу, экватор и выпили в южной Африке!!!
Намибия, день 1. Как меня занесло в Африку

Татьяна Аксиненко

Мы как обычно планировали провести лето на даче, но этим планам не суждено было сбыться – нас в подхватил ветер странствий и занес в Намибию.